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Understanding Silk Mark on a saree

Smooth plum fabric beside a textured green fabric, both folded to show their borders
Illustrative textile study

Look for Silk Mark on the saree you are considering. The Silk Mark Organisation of India (SMOI), an initiative of the Central Silk Board, authorises users to attach the label to pure natural silk products. The assurance applies to the individual saree that carries the label.

What the mark tells you about the cloth

On a Silk Mark-labelled saree, natural silk forms the base cloth in both directions, along the length and across the width. Other threads may be added to make a pattern. Zari is a decorative thread with a metallic appearance. It can run alongside the silk to make a border on a marked saree. If cotton forms part of the base cloth, see the guide to silk-cotton sarees. Read clause 2 of SMOI’s sample Resham Ghar licence (PDF).

Check the label on the actual saree

  1. Find the attached tag or sewn-in label and look for the hologram and unique number. When buying by video, ask for a close-up and then a wider view that shows which saree carries the label.
  2. In SMOI’s Label Authentication lookup, select the series and enter the serial number from the tag. Use the result to trace the label to the authorised user. If you get no result or the details differ, check the number again and ask SMOI for help. The Central Silk Board lists its Silk Mark contact under item 07. Find the Silk Mark contact in the Board’s service directory (PDF).
  3. Keep the original bill or receipt and a photo of the label. If there is a question about the fibre after purchase, ask SMOI about testing that piece.

Ask separately about the zari and the loom

If you want to know whether a gold-coloured border contains precious metal, ask what the zari is made from. Silk Mark covers the silk fibre. The composition and quality of the zari need their own evidence. If you’re choosing a saree for its handweaving or its place of origin, ask for the maker’s name, where the weaving took place and how those details are documented. For washing or pressing, read the care instructions for the finished saree.

Browse the silk saree guide.